Friday, 17 January 2014

Lost In Menswear

Long time no see internet!

Long story short -

New Job + Christmas + College = No time to sew selfishly

While I haven't had time to make any clothes for me I have been sewing for college. For my last module I lost my mind and decided to have a go at menswear and just to make things extra challenging I thought I would make a shirt. No idea what I was huffing to make that seem like a good idea - I was soo sooo envious of the others when they were making up simple skirts in a couple hours when I had been up til midnight sewing on buttons.

I started with the Fitted shirt block in Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich Drafting this was pretty painless as the instructions in the book were very easy to follow.





 I was so happy that this fit on the mannequin (who was obviously modelled on a linebacker) - it looked enormous as I was drafting and making it.

Final Garment -




I had a lot of changes to make to my final pattern, the most noticeable being 'raglanising' the sleeve. I found the instructions on doing this a bit vague, however this could be due to the book starting from a different pattern block than the one I was using. 

I chopped into the bodice pretty thoroughly to add my design lines and eliminated the darts whilst doing this. I came across a couple of problems doing this as the book has you drafting your blocks with a centimetre seam allowance, so in some places you are adding a seam allowance to part of your pattern piece but another of the edges will already have a seam allowance. As I had a lot of triangular pieces to match up on the front it was sometimes awkward to match up the seam lines, on the whole I prefer my pattern blocks to have no seam allowances so I can add them after I've chopped my pattern into a million pieces. 

I am reasonably happy with this project although I wish I had more time to complete it as there are some dodgy stitching lines which I'm hoping my tutor won't notice (sleeve plackets I'm looking at you) 

The fabric was purchased from Waltons Fabrics and is a thin crisp cotton chambray. I have enough fabric to make another shirt so I will probably made a shirt block for Beau, after I have finished some selfish sewing for me that is. 

Rachel x

psst - anyone else having problems with bloglovin? nothing on my feed will open, Its making it very frustrating trying to keep up with all your beautiful blogs.



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